Traveling in Italy

Question from Red Wine reader:
Ry and I are leaving for Italy in five weeks and are so pumped. I think we have everything figured out, but I am a little confused about the train. Have you guys used Trenitalia? If so, did you use the Trenitalia pass? It obviously seems like the best option for the amount of traveling we are doing, but I don't know much about it. I think the thing I'm most concerned about is getting from Rome to Milan to make a flight early in the morning. Do you think it's safe to buy a train ticket there, or purchase it ahead of time?

Can you tell I'm a novice traveler? haha. Thanks in advance for any advice you have.

Love,
Caitlyn and Ry

Our Response:
"For the Trenitalia pass, are you using Eurail or RailEurope? These through are pretty much equally priced and seem like the best deal. We have used Eurail twice and loved it. We had an unlimited pass, but the one where you purchase a certain amount of days would be good too.

A little tip on the pass where you have a certain number of travel days – Use your days for long distances and maybe just buy a separate ticket for a day trip. For instance: if you’re spending 5 days in Florence, but one of them you want to go to a small town about 30 minutes away that has a ton of wineries, buy that ticket because it might only be about $10-20 per person, and use the travel days for the 2 hour trip from Rome to Florence. Or if you go to Cinque Terre (one of Krystin and my favorite places on the coast) there are five towns connected by train, but only a few euro to by a day pass between the five instead of using a day of your Eurail. I wouldn’t get carried away with this, but it might save some money by buying a pass with a few less days if you need to.

The train from Rome to Milan and a morning flight: How early is early? I saw on the Rail Europe Web site that the train takes 3.5 hrs.

The Malpensa Express departs from Terminal 1 for Milan's Cadorna Rail Station every 30 minutes. It also stops at Milan Bovisa and Saronno stations. First train departs Malpensa at 06.45, the last train departs 21.45. Journey time is around 40 minutes.
• Fare: EUR 9.00 one-way. Same day return is EUR 12.00, open return EUR 14.50.
The Malpensa Express information line is 02 20222.
There are also rail links from Malpensa airport to Milan Central and Milan Garibaldi Stations via Gallarate. A local shuttle bus connects the airport with Gallarate Rail Station every hour.
• Shuttle bus fare: From Terminal 1 EUR 1.30, Terminal 2 EUR 1.05.
To Milan Central trains depart Gallarate from 05.54 until 23.24.
To Milan Garibaldi trains depart Gallarate from 05.30 until 23.00.
The State Rail Information number is 848 880.

So add another 40 minutes to travel time, plus the normal 2 hours you ‘should’ arrive before takeoff. That means you should be leaving Rome 6 hours and 10 minutes before your flight leaves, even a noon flight means you’re leaving Rome before 6:00am.

My advice, and we’ve done it many times before, get to Milan the night before and sleep in the airport. (Make sure it is open 24 hours) Every airport has canceled flights, or people waiting for family to arrive so it isn’t odd for people to be there at all hours. Take ear plugs, and an eye mask and be prepared for a bad night’s rest, but you won’t miss your flight. www.sleepinginairports.net

If you’re going the night before, I would probably use my rail pass because you’ve given yourself extra hours to spare if something were to happen. If you’re going on the morning, I’d buy that ticket ahead of time so it doesn’t sell out – especially if it is during rush hour times or near the weekend.

I hope this helps!!"
For a video that shows the inside of one Trenitalia train check out this video, but remember that all trains are different.




A Trenitalia train. Graffiti in, on, or around trains in most countries is very common.

How to travel for three or four months.

Question from a reader: Hi, my buddy and I are about to embark on a 3-4 month backpack of Europe. We would like to travel by train but don't know which pass to buy. Any suggestions?

Our Response:
"Eurail has a three month pass you could look into. Make sure to look at the “Saver” prices if you are older than 25 and you and your buddy always plan to be together. With the saver, if two or more people purchase the pass together, you can save about 15%.

Probably the best thing to do in your situation is to put countries that don’t use the rail pass on the beginning and end of your journey. For instance, lets say you decide to do a four month trip. Buy the three month pass (it is only $254 more than the two month) and fly to England first since the Eurail pass does not cover the United Kingdom (England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland). Travel around for two or three weeks and see London, Bath, Stonehenge, Glastonbury festival, Edinburgh, The Loch Ness Monster, Newcastle, and catch a rugby match or two. Then fly (check out the great deals at www.ryanair.com), to Barcelona, or any other city you might like to spend a few days in. - **Flight on Ryanair from London to Barcelona on Aprill 22 is $46 per person one way, which includes one checked bag.

After you are finished with that town and you’re ready to move on, take the train to the next destination and get the rail pass validated. You have now been traveling for nearly three weeks and the pass has just started the three month run. And then at the end of your journey end up near an area that is not on the pass, or end in a city you’d like to relax and spend a week in. Now you have been travelling for four months and only needed to buy the three month pass. This of course can work for any length of stay.

I did the math on possibly purchasing a one month Global pass and then buying a 10 day three country pass, but it works out better to just buy the three month pass if you’re going to be there for that long.

For travel in Great Britain look into buying a young person railcard, which saves about 1/3 off each train ticket and also www.megabus.com. Riding a bus sucks, but it can be about $3-$5 from one city to the next.

For a post on rail cards - http://www.redwinehelpsyousleepontrains.com/2009/11/travel-in-uk-young-persons-railcard.html

I hope this helps and please ask any more questions you may have."

Safe travels,

Scott and Krystin

Anyone for Bruges - Belgium that is

If you love beer, the best place in the world to try some new brews is Belgium. There are more than 125 breweries in a country smaller than the state of South Carolina with roughly 800 standard beers. If you include seasonal and one-offs, that number jumps to 8,700.

Brussels, the capital of Belgium, is similar to any other large European metropolitan city. While it definitely possesses some charm, a smaller town like Bruges is more our speed. Bruges is a perfect place to rent bikes and see a lot in a short amount of time. Bikes range from $10-20 per day and can be picked up all over town.




There is a bike and walking loop around the old part of town that takes you through parks, old moats and drawbridges that protected the city, windmills and plenty of pubs. The coast is also only about ten miles away along a canal which connects Bruges to Zeebrugge, a village on Belgium’s coast.

Our favorite pub in town is Brugs Beertje (www.brugsbeertje.be) which has more than 300 Belgian beers to choose from in a menu that resembles a karaoke book. One of Scott’s favorites is Delirium Nocturnum, which is characterized by a pink elephant on the label. (We assume this mascot was chosen due to the fact that this extremely strong drink nearly made Scott see elephants on our walk back to the hostel after a few of these.)

Drinking in a small place like Brugs Beertje provides a great experience because nearly all the beers have different glasses—many resembling wine or cognac glasses—and are poured by the bartender since each has a particular way to flow into the glass and settle. We never knew beer could be this in depth and delicious at the same time. But be aware of the alcohol content, as many range from 7-13%. (This will be listed in the karaoke book.)

Fruit beer is great for people like Krystin who don’t like the taste of beer but want to try something new. Fruit beers abroad are not like many “fruity beers” in the States, especially the holiday brews or citrus-flavored summer lagers that are actually normal beer made from hops and barley with fruit flavors added for a sometimes not very pleasant taste. The best Belgian fruit beers are made from fruit instead of hops to give the beer an entirely different, sweeter taste. Krystin hates beer, but drank the fruit kind all night in varieties from cherry, raspberry, banana, peach and blackcurrant.

Aside from the delicious beverages to be had in this quaint town, Bruges is simply an excellent place to slow down from a whirlwind trip and relax for a few days. Just sit in the main square watching the horse drawn carriages and listen to the church bells, or meander along the canals as you browse the wares of the local shops.

During your stay in Bruges, you may want to try a Belgian specialty: the waffle! Just make sure it is made fresh… and preferably has generous amounts of ice cream, whipped cream and fruit. Don’t settle for one from a vendor that is premade. Belgium is also known for its French fries; they did invent them, after all. Vendors will sell them to take away in white paper cones with small forks. Mayonnaise is the topping of choice, but ketchup should also be on hand. Just ask for “frites” (pronounced “freets”), and you will be one satisfied—and well-nourished—traveler.

Happy Birthday Red Wine

Red Wine Helps You Sleep on Trains has celebrated its one year birthday. The first videos were uploaded February, 2009 and since that time we have received more than 20,000 views. Thank you to everyone who has been a part of Red Wine and we hope we have helped you with your future travels.
Please keep asking questions, sending comments and posting photos to Flickr. I hope this year will be even more successful than last.

Scott and Krystin Dean

Interlaken, Switzerland

When it comes to picturesque European villages, Interlaken, Switzerland, is one of our all-time favorites, which may be due to the fact that it provides breathtaking 360-degree views of the Alps.

There are many free hikes to take in order to view this stunning panorama of the Jungfrau region of mountains. We took a hike suggested by our hostel that took us to the top of Harder Kulm, which looks down upon Interlaken and out toward the mountains. (You can also ride a funicular to the top if you’re short on time or short of breathe for $14 to the top or $22 round trip.) The walk, which takes around three hours, is fairly steep the entire way so make sure to bring along a snack or meal and plenty of water for each person. Also, take plenty of breaks and enjoy the views on the way up; it is very easy to get caught up in the goal of getting to the top but it’s important to look around you on the way. Nestled at the top of Harder Kulm is a restaurant and gift shop to enjoy a coffee or beer before the hike back down. We took our lunch along to avoid paying for food and enjoyed a lovely picnic before taking loads of photos and making our way back down. (We think it worth mentioning that walking down a steep mountain can be hell on your shins and calves, so it is best to take your time.)


Hostels in Interlaken mix young energy with rustic outdoorsy spirit to create a social environment focused on reveling in the beauty of the outdoors. The two most well-known hostels in Interlaken are Funny Farm (www.funny-farm.ch/) and Balmer’s Herberge (www.balmers.com). We’ve stayed in the latter twice and had great experiences both times. There is a decent-sized kitchen, games room, night club, nourishing free breakfast, extensive outdoor seating, and a desk to book adventure sports. The rooms are very affordable, running around $28 for a dorm-style room and in the $30 range for private rooms. While we haven’t stayed at Funny Farm, we have heard nothing but good reviews from fellow backpackers. The hostel has loads of perks, including a pool area, bar and nightclub, and nightly bonfire. Both of these hostels are located within walking distance from the train station with a great market just around the corner (although we will warn you that food is not the cheapest in this area due to its remote location).

When creating your budget, Interlaken may be a place where you will want to spend some cash if you love extreme sports. The sky above the village is always littered with skydivers, hang gliders, and paragliders. Other potential outdoor activities include ice climbing, rafting, canyoning (basically like rafting without a boat), skiing, sledding, mountain biking, and snowboarding, which can be arranged through www.outdoor-interlaken.ch among many other companies. These activities aren’t cheap, and we haven’t forked over the money to do any of them… yet. But a guy we met at Balmer’s said nothing beats falling into the Alps, and we believe him. If you aren’t as amped about falling from a plane but would still love the views, helicopter and airplane rides are also available.

An inexpensive excursion to get some adrenaline going while keeping your feet on the ground and staying (somewhat) dry is a hike to Trummelbach Falls, the only glacial waterfalls in Europe that can be viewed from inside a mountain. Steps carved from the mountain that hang out over raging water that is only inches away with barely a handrail to hold onto is an amazing way to view 10 glacial falls melting from Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. Take your raincoat because the force of the water sprays mist through the caverns and the temperature drops dramatically. You can walk eight miles from Interlaken or take a train to Lauterbrunnen to get to the falls. A bus can take you from the station to the entrance of the falls, but a pleasant, scenic walk along the river among the mountains is free. The falls are a UNESCO World Heritage Site so there is a $12 fee, but it is well worth the money.


Many people take the train to “The Top of Europe” (www.jungfraubahn.ch), which is the continent’s highest railway station that offers amazing panoramic views. The location houses a restaurant, hikes onto the glaciers, and an ice palace. The day-long journey to the top is expensive--around $200 for a return ticket. We only suggest paying this large sum if you have dreamt of seeing the Alps more than any other place in the world.

Some other interesting Interlaken tidbits….

- There are 2 train stations, Interlaken West and Ost, so make sure you get off at the right one when heading to your hostel of choice.

- Switzerland’s currency is the Swiss Franc. Currently, one Franc is equivalent to $.96 according to www.xe.com.

- The Jungfrau railway trains, gondolas, and funiculars are not included on the Eurail pass, so be prepared to pay extra for those modes of transportation.

- There is a Hooters restaurant in Interlaken. There is no real point for mentioning this fact; we just thought it was funny.

iPod® Tours

Let us begin by saying that we love technology. Scott loves using his MacBook whenever possible and Krystin tends to hyperventilate if she realizes her iPod isn’t charged when she wants to go to the gym. However, we are very, very anti-technology when it comes to taking iPods®, iPhones®, iTouches® or other expensive cellular or MP3 devices to Europe.

We have our reasons for this blatant prejudice:
1. They can get lost.
2. They can get broken.
3. They can get stolen.

If these three reasons weren’t enough to deter you, we have more:
4. You are constantly having to charge or change batteries in hostel rooms with few to no plugs available.
5. There are way better things to do in Europe than update your Facebook status or text someone. Also, both of these things require looking down at a screen when your eyes should be roaming around the city instead.
6. Listening to the sounds of the cities and their languages is much better than listening to Lady Gaga, no matter how awesome “Paparazzi” is.

We could go on and on. But we know that despite all of these valid reasons to leave the gadgets at home, many of you will simply refuse to be separated from your MP3 player. Since we cannot persuade you to leave them behind, we will at least tell you some ways to put them to good use while you are abroad.

The Web site, www.apple.com/ipod/tours, offers many free downloadable audio and video tours that go above and beyond the tiny sign on the wall next to the painting by providing in-depth history and fun facts about works of art, specific galleries, or entire rooms at the touch of a button. Information can be skipped, fast-forwarded, or rewound at your own pace.

If you don’t see the museum or attraction you’re visiting on the iPod Web site, it doesn’t mean they don’t offer one. Try checking the Web site of the attraction you’ll be visiting to see if they offer one for free or a small fee. Some attractions let you download the audio tour on site instead of doing it at home.

Another Web site to download free walks and tours is www.iaudioguide.com which has over 50 world cities and links to other sites that offer tours like the BBC. Two pay sites you may want to check out are www.tourcaster.com and www.walki-talki.com, which provide walking tours for spots all over the world. Some have previews so you know what you’re getting into before you buy. However, these sites can charge a pretty penny for short tours - $10 to $25 for an hour or two. We suggest reading up on the locales beforehand or asking locals about the places you visit to save some dough.

Another productive way to use your MP3 player while backpacking is to learn a language while traveling or before you leave. There are many programs on CDs that you can burn to your player and take with you to brush up on a language. Check your local or school library to see if they have some that you can take advantage of for free.

Finally, if you simply insist on using your iPod for musical purposes while roaming around Europe, we suggest researching some of the popular artists in major cities and downloading some of their songs beforehand. That way, even if you are shutting yourself off from the unique sounds of the city, you can still get a feel for the culture through the music.

Make Each Day Count

The first time I backpacked Europe my travel buddy and I saw everything at the speed of light and took little time to hang out in towns longer than a single night. We wanted to see as much as possible because we both had the mindset we would be back one day and know where we would want to visit again. I think our grand total of cities visited was 34 in 32 days. When it was all over, I felt like I needed a vacation after my vacation. But I wouldn’t have changed anything about that trip.

This method of seeing Europe is not for everyone, but for those of you who have a limited amount of time to spend overseas or happen to enjoy speaking a new language every other day, I highly recommend it. Some smaller towns will require only a single day to see the main sights before heading back to the station for an overnight train to the next destination. Most cities will need more time to truly savor each landmark, although you will be shocked by how familiar you can get with a city in just a few days.

Many people wonder how long they should stay in each city, and the truth is that there is no right answer because it depends on what each backpacker wants to see. I lived in England for two years and I still didn’t experience everything the cities I lived in had to offer. Every day will bring a new adventure regardless how long you stay in a place. A stay of more than a day will bring a couple things – familiarity with the area, more chances to meet locals and other travelers, and the opportunity to learn more about the language, food, and culture.

When deciding how long to stay in each city, think about the sights you want to see. For instance, if you want to visit the Louvre in Paris you will need to budget half a day if you want to take in even a quarter of the beauty that building houses. And that is only one of the sights Paris has to offer. Another aspect to consider is how large a city is. London not only has loads of places to visit but is spread out and requires public transportation, which means it will take more time to get from place to place.

It is also important to budget a few days for relaxation to make sure you aren’t spending every day running from tourist attraction to tourist attraction. We chose some of the most beautiful cities in Europe like Interlaken, Switzerland, and Cinque Terre, Italy, to hike and sunbath and not worry about what time it was. Once you have been going nonstop for a week, or two you will be so happy to recharge your batteries and slow things down for a bit.

Before you make the trip across the pond, sit down with all the people in your group and make a list of all the cities and villages everyone wants to see, including the sights that you deem crucial to visit. Find out what pace everyone feels comfortable with and how much relax time you want. It’s best to cover these items before you leave so that arguments don’t arise when one person wants to spend five days at each stop while everyone else is bored by day two.

Hostelling International (HI) Hostels

Hostelling International (HI) (http://www.hihostels.com) is the brand name of the non-profit International Youth Hostel Federation (IYHF) and more than 90 Youth Hostel Associations in 90 countries that operate 4,000 hostels around the globe. HI hostels can be easily recognized by a blue triangle sign.

Let’s get something straight first. Around 90 percent of all hostels in Europe do not require a membership card; however, HI hostels do. A membership card can be purchased from your nearest HI office in your home country, or from the first HI hostel you stay at for around $15.

We have only stayed in a couple HI hostels due to the membership card fee. If you do not purchase the card up front, it will cost around $3 or $4 extra per person for each night you stay. We make sure to only stay in HI hostels that have prices that are comparable to others in the city, even with this extra charge. For each night you pay the extra fee, you’ll be given a stamp on a card that holds six stamps. When the card is full, it is just like having purchased a card for $15, although purchasing the card for the initial fee up front saves around $3 to $5.

According to HI’s Web site, the main reason to become a member is to have access to safe, clean hostels. You may also receive discounted member prices in other hostels, discounts on activities, reduced admission to museums and cultural centers, savings in retail outlets, and reductions on some travel services. When we stayed in HI hostels, no one made us aware of these discounts so it behooves you to ask the reception staff what discounts you can get with the card.

HI hostels generally have the capacity to cater to large groups so they might be packed with people from school trips or tour groups when you’re there. Every HI is different so it is hard to categorize them – some have kitchens, some have lockouts, some have curfews, some offer free breakfast, some charge for bed linens.

It is important to be aware of HI hostels when you are booking rooms. The easiest thing to do may be to steer away from them in order to avoid paying extra for a membership card or an additional fee for each night’s stay. However, you may find that some smaller cities only have HI hostels, which means you will be paying the fee whether you want to or not.

No matter what kind of hostel you are staying at, here are some things to look for:
-Kitchen
-Free backpack storage
-No lockout (Some hostels lock their doors for a few hours during the day to clean and no entry is granted for a nap, meal, shower, or to grab something from your backpack during that time.)
-No curfew
-Free bed linen
-Co-ed or female-only rooms (depending on your group)
-Distance from train station